Planning your visit

Chemin de Paradis, the climbing path from
Pont du Loup to Gourdon
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

The importance of a good travel itinerary cannot be underestimated. On this, I have some professional experience. My first "real" job was at the Louisiana Department of Culture, Recreation, and Tourism. I began as a marketing specialist for the Louisiana Office of Film and Video, but about five months into the job, I wrote a statement on behalf of the Secretary of Culture, Recreation, and Tourism. He decided that he wanted my writing to be his "voice." I was quickly transferred to a Communications Specialist position in the Louisiana Office of Tourism, but my day-to-day job was writing speeches, correspondence, internal reports, and pretty much anything else the Secretary told me to write. Best of all, the job had a lot of freedom. My supervisor was the Executive Counsel, and he encouraged me to do lots of projects that were not strictly in my job description, such as reviewing Calls for Proposals and sitting in on proposal presentations or flying to Atlanta to attend a focus group on our new advertising campaign. But the most fun and exhausting "extra" job was running fam tours.

"Fam tours" (short for familiarization) are 2-5 day tours for journalists and other VIPs. The goal is to show them a cross-section of the state and hope they repay us with flattering coverage that will encourage people to visit the state. My tours we organized by a PR specialist in LOT. I rented a 15-passenger van, picked up the journalists (and once a member of the Canadian cabinet and his entourage) at the New Orleans airport, and drove them to the first of usually 4 stops per day. The tours, hotels, and most meals were comped by businesses hoping for some good coverage. My job was to herd the journalists around, get them to the appointments on time, and not to get lost. This was 1998, before GPS and Google Maps, so that was sometimes easier said than done. (The only tour that I planned entirely was for a former leader of the French socialist party, who may have been François Hollande; he cancelled at the last minute because of a world emergency. I did not know anything about French politics at the time and only marginally more now.)

The writing part of the job clearly prepared me teach business communication, which led to my current job at Minnesota State University, Mankato. Last week, a good friend and her husband visited us, so the fam tour part of the job came in handy as I planned an itinerary to show off the area. I know you probably will not get a chance to visit us before we return to the United States, but here is what we could have shown you. Feel free to visit it anytime without me.

Getting Here
Arrival by air (Aeroport Nice-Cote d'Azur or NCE), train (Gare de Nice-Ville or Gare de Cannes), or car if you are feeling brave (autoroute A8). Once you leave the autoroute, the roads are wickedly twisty and narrow and the French drive like maniacs. Unfortunately, renting a car is probably necessary to really explore the area properly. 

Full day: Nice (http://wikitravel.org/en/Nice) 

View from the Parc de la Colline du Chateau
toward the Nice Port
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

• From the Gare de Nice-Ville, walk or take the tram down Avenue Jean-Medecin, which is a pedestrian shopping zone. Along the way, drop into Nice Etoile shopping mall and Galeries Lafayette at Place Massena to see what French fashion is like (and costs!).
• At the Jardin Albert 1er, where the tram turns left onto Boulevard Jean Jaures, walk south into Vieux Nice. Most villages have a market day each week, but in Nice the Cours Saleya has a market every weekday morning that is quite extensive. Start at the western edge and enjoy the fresh flowers, then continue through the food, household items, and souvenir vendors. At the eastern edge of the market, turn left and explore the oldest part of the city, what was once a Roman village called Nissa and before that a Greek village called Nikaia.
• Cross the street to walk along the Promenade des Anglais and enjoy the salty breeze from the Baie des Anges. Queen Victoria made the Riviera famous when we used it as as escape from the gray, damp weather in England and her grief after the death of Prince Albert. The rich English followed and enjoyed walking along the beach for exercise. The French thought they were crazy, but now the Promenade is a favorite place for running, cycling, rollerblading, and skateboarding. Or you can just sit on the galets (large, flattish rocks) and enjoy the sound of the Mediterranean sea crashing onto the shore.
• Head east and climb many, many steps to the top of Parc de la Colline du Chateau. The castle is long gone, but the stairs are good exercise, particularly if you have just gotten off a long plane/train ride, and the waterfall and the place at the top level offer wonderful photo opportunities.)
• Walk (or public transit) northeast of Vieux Nice to the Archeological Crypt. This entrance to the Chateau was buried under the city and remained hidden for centuries. It was discovered just a few years ago when the city began digging a second tram line. 
• Art lovers will enjoy the Chagall museum and Matisse museum. (There is also a Renoir museum in Cagnes-sur-Mer, about 20 minutes away by car, on the way to Antibes and Cannes.) 

l'Année Sabbatique, my custom perfume
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

Full day: Grasse (http://wikitravel.org/en/Grasse) & Gourdon (http://www.gourdon06.fr/)

• You can make your own perfume at the Galimard Studio des Fragrances. Reservations are required, and you can request a "nose" who speaks English. The two-hour lessons begin at 10:00 am and 2:00 pm. Cost is 49 Euros, which includes a 100 cl bottle of your custom perfume. You will be given a registration number that can be used to reorder the perfume (or hand lotion scented with your perfume).
• Clear your head with a walk around Grasse Centre. The old village is filled with narrow, twisted pedestrian streets and boutiques with clothing, jewelry, home furnishings, and souvenirs. 
• Find a place for lunch at the Place aux Aires. We have visited Le New Punjab for Indian, Le Margoum for Tunisian, and Le Rendez Vous and Chez Max for traditional French cuisine. All were excellent.
• If your olfactory senses are not overwhelmed from the morning event, take the free tour of the Fragonard perfume factory. Otherwise, visit the International Perfume Museum.
• Finish the day with a visit to Gourdon. The tiny medieval village is very touristic (only a handful of people actually live there anymore) but it offers some of the most spectacular views of the coast. If you're feeling energetic, park near the cemetery in Bar sur Loup and do an easy(ish) 90-minute hike. The Chemin de Paradis, a slightly more strenuous hike, starts in Pont du Loup and meets up with the Bar sur Loup path at the midpoint. Otherwise, take the Route de Gourdon from Pre du Lac. 



Outdoor seating at Les Grands Hommes in Gourdon.
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

• During the summer months, make a reservation for dinner because the restaurants fill up and diners usually stay for at least 90 minutes. Belle Mere would want me to suggest that you eat at the Restaurant Auberge du Gordon, which has delicious food and is owned by friends, but it is located at the entrance to the village. Try La Taverne Provencal or Les Grands Hommes, which have great food and views. 

Half or full day: Cannes (http://wikitravel.org/en/Cannes)

• I have to admit that Cannes was not my cup of tea until recently. There was one main road into the city center and it was full of traffic, stop lights, and traffic jams. But when we visited in January, we discovered that city has redesigned the main road so that traffic moves more smoothly and efficiently. If driving, park at the train station and walk toward the water. On the way, browse the shops in the old village. Even more than Nice, Cannes is a favorite for high end shopping.
• Walk along La Croisette and ogle the yachts moored in the marina. (One berth was on sale recently for 900 Euros, if that gives you a sense of how much money is floating in those waters.) There are sand beaches on the Baie de Cannes for sunbathing or swimming. 
• Cannes is famous for its film festival in May. The Palais des Festivals et des Congres is located on the bay, and it hosts conventions and cultural events year-round.
• To fill your day, take the ferry to the Ils des Lerins. The pair of islands house a monastery (St. Honorat) and a convent, a fort, and a former prison that once held the real Man in the Iron Mask (St. Marguerite). There are a couple of restaurants open during the summer season, but you can make a better use of your time by packing a picnic lunch and finding a quiet, sunny coves to enjoy the views.

Antibes, looking toward Nice. January 2016.
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

Half day: Antibes (http://wikitravel.org/en/Antibes)

• Built on a rock jutting out into the sea, Antibes has a small sandy beach next to its marina (lots more yachts). It is a favorite city for British and Australian expats, so you can probably find someone to speak English if necessary.
• Pablo Picasso rented a villa here for many years and lots of his work are now at the Picasso Museum in the center of the village.
• Given its proximity to the airport (about 25 minutes by car), walking around Antibes is a great way to get some sun to ward of jet lag on your day of arrival. Otherwise, combine this village with others to fill your day.

Half day: Valbonne (http://www.tourisme-valbonne.com/en/) and Opio

• Valbonne Village is another popular village for English-speaking expats, particularly because of its proximity to Sophia-Antipolis, the "Silicon Valley of France." The village undertook an extensive renovation project a few years ago, and today it more tidy and picturesque than ever. It is also one of the most orderly French villages I have ever seen. You can walk the grid in 30 minutes, but the shops on every street will probably make your visit considerably longer.
• Our favorite places for lunch are La Pigeot (Moroccan) and L'Auberge Provençale (classical French).
• Fifteen minutes from Valbonne is Opio, a village known for its olive groves. In winter, you can tour the Moulin d'Opio and watch them press olives into oil. Throughout the year, you can shop in the store and buy olives, bottles or cans of fresh oil, olive wood products, soaps, and various regional sweets and jams.  

San Remo, Italy in March 2016
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

Full day: San Remo, Italy (http://wikitravel.org/en/San_Remo)

A restaurant in San Remo, Italy
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

• It seems odd and ostentatious to drive to another country for lunch, but Ventimiglia is only an hour away from Nice. Belle Mere and friends recommend driving another 30 minutes to San Remo for better views and a more picturesque city. The mountains drop right into the sea here, so all of the beaches are private and artificially constructed.  Pick one, rent a cabana to change into your swimsuit, and enjoy the sun. Most beaches also have restaurants that are open to the public if you just want to enjoy the fresh air. 
• The boardwalk along the sea runs the length of the village. In addition to finding a place to eat, you can also rent a bicycle, tandem bicycle, or pedal car and explore the seaside village.  

The Casino in Monte Carlo. Locals are forbidden,
but tourists are encouraged to enter and spend all of their money.
(c) 2016 by JenVeltsos

Half day: Monaco (http://wikitravel.org/en/Monaco)

• If you want to see fancy cars, fancy clothes, and loud tourists, stop at Monaco on the way to or from Italy. This tiny principality is a tax haven and the home of one of the oldest royal families in Europe. At about a square mile in size, you will encounter several named neighborhoods. Monte Carlo is the most famous, home of the casino and highest of high end shopping. 
• We usually park at the Casino and walk (or take the bus) to Monaco-Ville or "the rock." Tour the palace, watch the changing of the guard (kids get invited inside the ropes for the best view), and visit the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, which was assembled by Jacques Cousteau.
• On the way home, take the High Corniche through La Turbie and visit the Trophies des Alpes, a Roman monument. 

Half day: Pont du Loup

• Begin with lunch at the Auberge des Gorges de Loup, a tiny inn that is the only one of four hotels to survive the 20th century. (Like many French restaurants, it is closed on Mondays.) 
• After lunch, walk down the road to tour the candy factory. Start with a quick stop at the Chocolaterie Florian (the chocolate shop on the ground floor of my building) and then continue on to the Confiserie Florian for a 20-minute tour of the factory (English available). The tour ends in the shop, and in my experience, expect to spend about an hour tasting the wares and deciding how much candy you can reasonably carry home. 
• Exit the Confiserie and turn right to walk along the river. At the end of the small parking lot/loading area, the dirt path along the Rive du Loup  will cross three bridges. The walk is 90 minutes one way, a little rocky and more challenging after the first bridge.) Stop for coffee at the Saut de Loup at the end of the trail and then return to the village.) 
• If you are a thrill seeker, there is a popular spot for rock climbing at the first bridge, and FunTrip can arrange a canyoning trip. People also paraglide down from Gourdon.  

Full day: Gorges du Verdon (http://www.lesgorgesduverdon.fr/en/index.html)

• Ok, so we did not visit the Gorge du Verdon this year. We did visit it about 10 years ago and it was lovely. Hubby describes it as the French version of the Grand Canyon, although smaller in size. 
• The gorge is about two hours from Grasse, and expect to spend a full day driving the rim of the gorges and stopping at villages and panoramas all along the way.